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Even during the “Golden Age” of plus-size catalogs like Lane Bryant in the 1950s and 60s, the models were almost exclusively white. Black women with curves—from the statuesque Lena Horne to everyday churchgoers—were forced to become masters of improvisation. They relied on seamstresses, custom tailoring, and a deep cultural knowledge of fabric and fit passed down through generations. Style was a survival tactic, a way to assert dignity in a world that told them their bodies were neither desirable nor worth dressing well.

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