Because the HW-133-V1.0 ships with a variable potentiometer, to prevent overvoltage damage.
Once the multimeter shows your desired voltage (e.g., 5V), disconnect power, solder your device to the output, and you're ready to go. ⚠️ Essential Safety Tips Step-Down Only: Hw-133-v1.0 Datasheet
If the output is "jittery," adding a 100uF electrolytic capacitor across the OUT+ and OUT- pads can help smooth out the ripple. Because the HW-133-V1
Before wiring your targeted load (e.g., an Arduino, ESP32, or sensor array) to the module, you must calibrate the voltage output: solder your device to the output
Since HW-133 is a PCB design, not a chip, search for these terms instead:
Because the HW-133-V1.0 ships with a variable potentiometer, to prevent overvoltage damage.
Once the multimeter shows your desired voltage (e.g., 5V), disconnect power, solder your device to the output, and you're ready to go. ⚠️ Essential Safety Tips Step-Down Only:
If the output is "jittery," adding a 100uF electrolytic capacitor across the OUT+ and OUT- pads can help smooth out the ripple.
Before wiring your targeted load (e.g., an Arduino, ESP32, or sensor array) to the module, you must calibrate the voltage output:
Since HW-133 is a PCB design, not a chip, search for these terms instead: